◇ Field Guide · Therma-Guard
INstallation
Instructions
Therma-Guard is not difficult to install. However, there are a few things the builder should be aware of. Here are our requirements and some tips on installation.
Therma-Guard was designed with the contractor in mind. From the top down, our company is made up of people who understand the application and have installed reflective barriers on many buildings. Here are a couple things that will make the install easier on the builder, especially in the unpredictable outdoor conditions they work in.
◇ Requirements & Tips
Get It
Perfect
The product does the work — but it performs best when the overlap, the edges, the span, and the stapling are handled the way the crew handles them. Here's what to know.
01
The 2-inch overlap
While 2 inches doesn't seem like a lot for the average guy, you will find that 2 extra inches on our Therma-Guard product is, in fact, a lot. It's the difference between needing to pull up the second sheet underlap to staple your next run of insulation, and just being able to run your next run without thinking about it.
It could also prevent the need to run a small strip at the end when running vertically across a building, depending on how much was overlapped. When running horizontally, it provides the little extra needed to span the lathing when the runs vary a little bit.
02
Wrap the Edges
Wrap the edges around corners and roof rake to ensure maximum insulating properties. When butting the edges together, make sure to use a high-quality reflective tape.
03
The 2-inch overlap
Therma-Guard can span up to 5' for commercial applications. When using on metal-framed buildings, use a strong-adhesion double-sided tape applied to the framing first and press the Therma-Guard on firmly across the run.
04
Stapling
Sounds simple. But the woven backing on Therma-Guard holds staples and button caps like you wouldn't believe. A few staples strategically placed on each end of the run — and a few in the middle — are normally sufficient to hold Therma-Guard in place until the siding or roofing is installed over top of it.
◇ Requirements & Tips
Get It Perfect.
Installation Guide
Therma-Guard is designed to be installed by anyone comfortable on a job site. It rolls out, staples down, and stays put. Below are the three ways most builders install it, followed by a few tips that apply to every job.
Before You Start
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- Therma-Guard rolls (6 ft / 74″ wide with 2″ overlap, or 4 ft / 51″ wide with 3″ overlap)
- Staple gun with standard staples (or button-cap staples/nails)
- High-quality reflective (foil) tape for butt seams
- Utility knife and straightedge
- Tape measure and chalk line
- Strong-adhesion double-sided tape if you’re working on steel framing
*R-Value based on combined radiant and thermal resistance function and depends on assembly.
WHICH SIDE FACES OUT?
Therma-Guard has a shiny reflective side and a woven fabric side. The reflective side should always face an air space — that’s where it does its work. In roof and wall installs, that means reflective side toward the metal panels, woven side toward the inside of the building.
PLACE YOUR RUNS
Check your framing spacing first. Therma-Guard spans up to 5 feet between supports in commercial applications. If your purlins or girts are farther apart than that, add blocking or lathing before you start.
01
Roof – Over the Purlins (New Construction)
Best for: New pole barns, metal buildings, and shops before the roof panels go on.
This is the most common way Therma-Guard is installed. It goes on top of the roof purlins and directly under the metal roofing, creating an air gap that reflects heat and keeps condensation from dripping into the building
Steps
1.
Set your purlins. Make sure trusses are true and purlins are secured before you begin.
2.
Start at the eave. Therma-Guard can be rolled out either perpendicular to, or parallel with, the purlins but should be rolled reflective side up.
3.
Anchor the starting edge. Staple the first end down firmly. On windy days, temporarily tack a 2×4 block
over the end so the sheet can’t lift while you work
4.
Pull it tight and staple. Roll Therma-Guard out across the purlins, reflective side up, beginning at the eave and
working toward the ridge. Run the sheet perpendicular to the purlins (parallel to the eave)
5.
Run the next course. Overlap the next sheet onto the built-in 2″ (or 3″) overlap strip. Because the overlap is
generous, you can lay the second sheet right over the first and staple through both without lifting anything
6.
Tape any butt seams. Where two sheets meet end-to-end, seal the joint with reflective tape
7.
Wrap the edges. Carry the insulation over the edge so the barrier is continuous
8.
Install the roof panels. Screw the metal roofing down through the insulation into the purlins. Work in manageable sections so uncovered insulation isn’t left exposed overnight
Tip: Keep the reflective side clean and dust-free before the metal goes on. A dusty reflective surface reflects less heat.
02
Walls – Over the Girts (New Construction)
Best for: Sidewalls and end walls on pole barns and metal buildings before siding goes on
The wall install works the same way as the roof, just standing up. Therma-Guard goes on the outside of the wallgirts, under the metal siding.
Steps
1.
Choose your direction. Therma-Guard can run horizontally (parallel to the girts) or vertically (from the top
plate down). Most crews run horizontally on long walls and vertically on short ones — pick whichever leaves
the fewest seams.
2.
Start at the top. Whether you run horizontal or vertical, begin at the top of the wall so each new course laps
over the one below it, like shingles. This sends any moisture that reaches the insulation downward and out
3.
Staple to the girts. Reflective side out, woven side in. Staple at each end of the run and a few places in the
middle. On long horizontal runs, the extra overlap gives you room to span girts that aren’t perfectly straight
4.
Overlap each course. Lay the next sheet onto the built-in overlap strip and staple through both layers
5.
Cut around openings. Run the sheet right across door and window openings, then cut the opening out with
a utility knife. Fold the flaps into the rough opening and staple them down for a clean, sealed edge
6.
Wrap the corners. Carry the insulation around every corner of the building rather than stopping short. Tape
any butt seams with reflective tape
7.
Install the siding. Fasten metal siding through the insulation into the girts.
On steel framing: Apply a strong-adhesion double-sided tape to the framing first, then press Therma-Guard firmly onto it across the whole run. Add screws with washers at the siding stage to lock everything down.
02
Retrofit – Under the Purlins or Trusses (ExistingBuildings)
Best for: Adding insulation to a metal building that's already built, without removing the roofor siding.
When the metal is already on, Therma-Guard installs from the inside. Fastening it to the bottom of the purlins (orthe bottom chord of the trusses) creates an enclosed air space between the insulation and the metal, whichdelivers a strong reflective R-value and stops condensation drips
Steps
1.
Inspect and clear the area. Check the existing roof for leaks and fix them first. Remove anything hanging
from the purlins that would be in the way
2.
Decide on your fastening surface. For bottom-of-purlin installs, you’ll staple directly into the purlins. For
bottom-of-truss installs (a flat ceiling), nail 1×2 or 1×4 furring strips across the bottom of the trusses on
22″–24″ centers to give yourself something to staple into
3.
Start at one end of the building. Roll Therma-Guard out perpendicular to the purlins or furring strips,
reflective side up (toward the air space and the metal), woven side facing down into the room
4.
Staple as you go. Staple one end, pull the sheet snug, and work down the run. Put staples along each purlin
or strip the sheet crosses — roughly every 4″–6″ — since this install has to hold its own weight overhead
5.
Overlap and tape. Lap each new course onto the built-in overlap strip. Because you’re working overhead,
tape the seams with reflective tape as well as stapling — it keeps the joints tight and gives a clean finished
look.
6.
Seal to the walls. Run the sheet to the ridge and down to the top plate of the wall, and staple it off. Tape
where it meets the walls if you’re going for an airtight ceiling.
7.
Keep ventilation working. Do not block ridge vents or soffit vents. Leave air paths open so the air space
above the insulation can breathe.
Walls in a retrofit: Follow the same idea — staple Therma-Guard to the inside face of the girts, reflective side toward the metal siding, and tape the seams
Optional finish: Therma-Guard’s woven side can be left exposed, or you can install liner panels, OSB, or drywall over it later.
Tips That Apply to Every Install
■
Use the overlap. The built-in 2″–3″ overlap is there to make your life easier. Lay each new sheet right onto it
and staple through both layers — no pulling up the previous sheet
■
Tape butt seams. Anywhere sheets meet end-to-end, use a good reflective tape. It keeps the vapor barrier
and reflective surface continuous.
■
Wrap corners, eaves, and rakes. Don’t stop short at the edge. Carrying the insulation around the corner is
what makes the whole building envelope work.
■
Don’t over-staple. A few staples at each end and a few in the middle hold Therma-Guard until the metal goes
on. The woven backing does the rest.
■
Watch the wind. Therma-Guard is much stronger than typical reflective insulation, but a full sheet still catches
air. Anchor the leading edge before you roll.
■
Reflective side toward the air gap — always. This is the single biggest factor in getting the performance
you paid for.
Questions on the job site?
Our support team is made up of people who have installed Therma-Guard on plenty of buildings themselves.
(931) 325-0000
Monday – Friday, 8:00 – 4:00 Central
dutchtech.com/contact
Therma-Guard carries a 10-year warranty against defects in materials and workmanship when installed in approved building or OEM applications in accordance with Dutch Tech’s installation instructions. Local building codes and practices are the responsibility of the installer. Proudly made in Lobelville, Tennessee, USA.
On a job site and need some quick advice?
Contact our support staff! If needed, we can give you a call. Monday–Friday, 8:00–4:00 Central.
